Bernina massif with Piz Palü and Piz Bernina (photo: Susanne Bonaca)Bernina massif with Piz Palü and Piz Bernina (photo: Susanne Bonaca)
Bernina massif with Piz Palü and Piz Bernina (photo: Susanne Bonaca)Bernina massif with Piz Palü and Piz Bernina (photo: Susanne Bonaca)
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Mountains

Alpinism in Pontresina

The beginnings of summer alpinism go back to the middle of the 19th century. The mountain village of Pontresina located in the centre of the Bernina Massif was predestined to become a centre for summer mountaineers. The mountains on the right side of the valley around Piz Alv, Piz Languard and Las Sours had become the preserve of hunters at an early stage. Now the focus was on the truly high mountains.


After the eastern summit of Palü was conquered in 1835 by Oswald Heer, Meuli and Alexander Flury under the leadership of Johann Madutz (Gian Marchet Colani is also thought to have accompanied them), the alpinist, topographer and later forestry inspector Johann Coaz succeeded in conquering Piz Bernina (4049 m) for the first time in 1850. With the exception of Piz Roseg, which was first conquered by Englishmen A. W. Moore and Horace Walker with their guide from Meiringen Jakob Anderegg, first ascents were made almost exclusively by local inhabitants, or in the leadership of local mountain guides.

 

Further first ascents:

  • Piz Scerscen: Hans Grass with Güssfeldt
  • Piz Zupò: Teacher Enderlin and Pastor Otto Serardi
  • Piz Morteratsch: Brügger, Gensler, Emmermann, Angelo Klainguti
  • Piz Cambrena: Hans Grass, Emil Burckhardt
  • Sella-Chapütschin: Forestry inspector Johann Coaz

Milestones in Engadin's alpinism:

  • 1871 Establishment of the Pontresina Mountain Guide Association
  • 1891 Foundation of the "Secziun Bernina" of the SAC (Swiss Alpine Club)
  • 1935 The Pontresina Mountaineering School was founded by Chasper Grass. It was closed down later for a few years for unknown reasons.
  • 1961 The current Pontresina Mountaineering School was founded on the initiative of Paul Nigg.

Piz Bernina

Piz Bernina, also known as the "king of the mountains", is the only mountain in the 4000 m range in the Eastern Alps. At 4049 m, it is also the highest mountain in this area. Piz Bernina and its neighbours Piz Palü, Piz Roseg and Bellavista are part of the Bernina range, or simply the Bernina. The border between Switzerland and Italy runs across this range.

Piz Bernina with the Bianco ridge (4049 m a.s.l.)
Piz Bernina with the Bianco ridge (4049 m a.s.l.)

The mountain has three summits, the middle one being the highest. Slightly lower and scarcely separated from the main summit is Spalla (La Spedla, 4020 m). The national border runs over its south-west and south-east ridge. The main summit is therefore entirely on Swiss territory – although the Italians often claim it for themselves. The north summit (Piz Bianco or Romansh: Piz Alv) is located on the other side of the distinctive Bernina gorge. The north summit represents the final point in the firn-covered section of the north ridge, the famous Bianco ridge. It is reputed to be the most beautiful ice-covered ridge in the Alps.


Piz Bernina is connected in the south-west to the 3971 m Piz Scerscen via the Scerscen gorge. It is separated in the south-east from the Crast' Agüzza (3854 m) by the glaciated Fuorcla Crast' Agüzza (3591 m). The Bianco ridge terminates in the Fuorcla Prievlusa (3430 m), from where its crest rises to Piz Morteratsch (3751 m).


The mountain drains predominantly via the Morteratsch and Tschierva glaciers into the Flaz, later into the Inn. The south side of Spalla drains via Val Scerscen, via Lanterna and Mallero, into the Adda.

Piz Palü

Piz Palü is a 3900 m mountain in the Bernina range in the border region between the Swiss canton of Graubünden and the Italian province of Sondrio (Lombardy).

Piz Palü with the three pillars (photo: Susanne Bonaca)
Piz Palü with the three pillars (photo: Susanne Bonaca)

To the west, it is separated from Bellavista by the gorge known as Fuorcla Bellavista. To the south and east, it drops to the Vadret da Palü (Palü glacier) and the glacier plateau of Altipiano di Fellaria. The north side of Piz Palü overlooks the Pers glacier, which merges with the Morteratsch glacier farther down. To the north-east, it is separated from Piz Cambrena by Fuorcla Pers-Palü. Palü is considered to be part of the Eastern Alps, as is the entire Bernina range.


With its three summits and four embedded hanging glaciers on the north side, which are separated by three symmetrical pillars rising from the Pers glacier, Palü is regarded as one of the most beautiful glacial mountains in the world. Its fame is due to the fact that its spectacular side faces the Diavolezza, which is easily accessible by mountain railway and visited by thousands of tourists every year.


The height of the main or central summit (Muot dal Palü) is currently quoted by the Swiss Federal Office of National Topography at 3900 m. The east summit (Piz Palü Orientale) is only slightly lower at 3882 metres. The rocky west summit (Piz Spinas) totals 3823 metres.


The Palü massif is located at a distance of approximately 13 km to the south east of Pontresina. The border between Switzerland and Italy runs from Bellavista in the west over Piz Spinas towards the central summit to point 3898 on the national map, before turning south, initially following a short ridge of rock, onto the glacial plateau of Altipiano di Fellaria. The main summit is therefore located entirely on Swiss territory.

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