Scena da glatsch

When ice climbing developed into an alpine discipline in its own right in the 1990s, local climbers also discovered the Ova da Bernina White Water Gorge. Water oozing out of cracks in the rock formed individual icefalls, especially in the lower part.

Res Bähler, an innovative Mountain Guide from Pontresina, came up with the idea of helping the natural ice formation somewhat . In the Winter of 2006/07, he experimented with a fire hose to allow additional ice to form around the Gorge. And, with success.

Since then, the local mountain guides have increasingly perfected methods of ice formation in the gorge. Pontresina is considered the pioneer of watering rock faces for ice climbing, and other destinations have since adopted the technique.

In addition to its unique location in the centre of the village, the Pontresina gorge has the advantage of its altitude. Cold temperatures are constant over a long period of time, with up to 40 routes offering ideal ice-climbing conditions from mid-December to mid-March.

Compared to ice climbing on an icefall in remote terrain, the dangers in the Ova da Bernina White Water Gorge are much reduced . Some of the routes are secured with standing places and some with drill hooks (on the mixed routes), similar to those on a climbing garden.

Learning with the professionals

Nevertheless, ice climbing in the Pontresina Gorge is still associated with risks. Chunks of ice can break off, triggered by other climbers, for example. Ice climbing is not possible without experience or professional supervision. We would therefore recommend a ‘taster’ course with the Pontresina Mountaineering School. It is also an advantage to have had some rock climbing experience.

Not all ice is the same

As water remains in motion even when frozen, the conditions for ice climbing can change within a short space of time, for better or for worse. This transient and dynamic nature is what makes ice climbing so fascinating, but also complex and risky.

Res Bähler, who initiated ice climbing in the Pontresina Gorge was a well-known popular mountain guide. In 2009, he guided the TV Presenter Nick Hartmann up the Piz Bernina for the ‘SF TV Programme "SRF bi de Lüt" (SRF with the People). In February 2011, the experienced alpinist tragically died. As he was packing up his equipment after an ice climb in Val Fex, he was hit on the back of the head by a falling piece of ice . One day later, Res Bähler succumbed to his serious injuries. He was only 39 years old.
As well as many friends and mountain guide colleagues, Res Bähler left behind a great mountaineering legacy. Not only did he raise the profile of ice climbing in the Engadine; he also co-initiated and supervised the construction of the Pontresina Rope Park and the La Resgia Via Ferrata. He also developed and improved many climbing routes throughout the Bernina region.